MALACCA HERITAGE

Having heard so much about Malaysia it was inevitable that we would end up here one day for a holiday. We chose to stay in the Westin Hotel in Kuala Lumpur as shopping, eating and entertainment are always high on our travel agendas. Here we met Jennifer who was visiting from the United States and was keen to travel with us to Malacca as she had been reading about the city's colourful history.

While there are various organised tours to Malacca we wanted to do it by ourselves at our own pace using our own vehicle and the hotel's concierge suggested using one of the city's premium taxis. It was also a holiday weekend so most public transport was fully booked. We discussed this with Ronnie a driver of a premium taxi and he was delighted to assist. So we headed off for the two-hour trip after it was agreed that the driver stay with us in Malacca so he could be our driver/guide.

Our Lonely Planet guidebook was our main source of reference and its listing for the Puri Hotel was spot on. Malacca is an old strategic seaport that has Portuguese, Dutch and British influences as well as those from local Malay, Chinese and Indian populations. As we weaved our way through the narrow streets we could appreciate the blend of architectural styles from the various cultural backgrounds. In the middle of this maze stands the Puri Hotel which looks like an old Chinese shopfront but inside is a labyrinth of gracious period rooms. It has an open cool courtyard that became our oasis in between trips out into the heat, humidity and history that is Malacca.

Malacca's historic heart belongs to another era as cars now try to negotiate the narrow streets. Turn any corner here and there's an old shop with artisans crafting materials into souvenirs or utilitarian products. The one that fascinated us most was the Chinese 'paper money' shop where paper is used to manufacture replica products for people to 'send' to their ancestors. Around another corner there's a temple, mosque, restaurant, souvenir outlet, antique store or even a trendy coffeeshop. We could easily appreciate why the city is trying to attain UNESCO World Heritage status for this historic area.

The old area around the Christ Church, ruins of St Paul's, the Stadthuys and Porto de Santiago are all within walking distance and the ochre-red colour of many of the buildings gives them a distinguished appearance. While a little touristy it's hard to resist a ride in a colorful trishaw. The riders all have their own little pitch and some have music to accompany the ride. How could we resist?

It was all hot and sweaty work and it wasn't long before we found refuge in a quaint old coffeeshop for some much needed refreshment.

We were conscious of the time as we'd been told to relax over dinner and watch the sunset in the Portuguese Village just south of the city. While the setting looks more like an open air carpark, both the food and the sunset didn't disappoint.

Food turned out to be one of the great discoveries in Malacca. Almost anything's possible and apart from Chinese, Indian and Malay dishes found here and all over the country, the Peranakan (a blend of Malay and Chinese) and Portuguese-inspired cuisine, is unique. Being right on the sea, the seafood is a specialty here.

Malacca seems to be a place that never goes to sleep and we found ourselves shopping very late at night. Many restaurants and a few bars also stay open till late.

We were all amazed as just how quiet our rooms were and found ourselves sleeping in which was okay as many places didn't open early anyway. Maybe it was also that our second day in Malacca coincided with Hari Raya, the Moslem holiday that follows the fasting month.

There is a street in Malacca they call Temple Street where places of worship of different faiths are located within metres of each other. It was fascinating to see people co-existing so closely. It wasn't long before we three foreign women generated some interest amongst the locals. There were some teenagers in very colourful clothing and they told us they were celebrating the end of their month-long fast.

Without any hesitation they invited us back to one of the boy's homes for a drink and snack. Our driver reassured us that this was a Malaysian tradition of open house and the family would be honoured to have us drop by. In fact it was us who were privileged as we had a chance to see a village home and to sample some delicious cakes and biscuits. They showed us around and told us of their life at school.

Our time in Malacca was rapidly coming to an end but we all agreed that a little more time for shopping is always be possible and it was the antique stores that proved to be the most popular. Just next to one on Jalan Hang Jebat we also found a café selling the most delicious fresh coffee and snacks. Yet another culinary find in Malacca to add to our list. Limau Limau Café looks like it belongs back in Greece, America or anywhere else but Malacca. Piles of delicious tropical fruit on the bar did give it away as being Malaysia.

Reluctantly we left Malacca and we all agreed that we were glad we came and that we stayed overnight and didn't attempt it as a day trip. The place has a colourful past with much of it looking as it has for the past few centuries.
source: www.tourism.gov.my